In the buildlog schematics there is a separate diagram for a IEC320 power entry module. I believe we have this module (or a similar one, I’ll have to check) and the din rail terminal blocks in the diagram already wired together. This can be used to power the water and air pumps as suggested.
I’ll have to look in the bin again as I don’t recall seeing an air compressor. If we do have it i’ll check the part number and get the specs on it. We can activate a solenoid actuator to trigger the air assist pump via one of the relays on TB5
The buildlog wiki has a section that gives info on the air pump – http://www.buildlog.net/wiki/doku.php?id=2x:sources_for_laser_parts
The relevant portion is reproduced here:
Assist Air Pumps
Most high end laser have assist air systems. This blasts a jet of air along the path of the beam after the lens. This does two things for lasers at our level of power. It clears the smoke away from the beam. The smoke can block the full power of the beam from reaching the work piece. It also keeps smoke from reaching the lens. The smoke can be full of dirty, sticky and corrosive chemicals. An assist air system with a nozzle can prevent smoke from ruining your expensive lens. If particles reach the lens, they can be permanently fused in place by the power of the beam.
The total required airflow and pressure is not that high so large aquarium pumps and air brush pumps work well. Ebay is a good source. Look for one similar to the picture shown above (ActiveAqua 60W, 70L/min). You can also use any other form of compressor you might have but limit the flow or pressure to a reasonable value. Start with 15 PSI and work your way up.
Be sure that the compressor outputs clean and dry air. You do not want dirt or water getting on your lens. Do not let your pump suck up dust bunnies.
I know we have the nozzle for this but I couldn’t find it last time I looked. Aaron and someone else were working on it and I know they got the hole drilled for the air line going in and had the little connector for that. We still need to drill at least one hole (3 are pictured above) for set screws.
The water cooling system appears to be complete. We just need some hose of the right length and the proper connections to the laser tube.
Jonathan has a fancy controller for it, the Athena XT16:
We will have to find a way for this to be the trigger for the Water Monitor switch ( TB4 ) in the schematic. I’m guessing we will have it so that if the water temp is too high or not flowing, it flips the switch so the laser can not fire.
The google doc had this to say about the water supply:
I don’t have the specs on the tube but I’ll look up the necessary flow rate and volume when I have a chance to check which tube we have.
The only marking that indicates a model number on the laser tube didn’t bring up any information when I searched for it online. I found some specs on a similar tube though here.
1. Cooling water temperature: 15 – 30 in summer, in other seasons 20 is better.
2. Cooling water flow rate: Above 6L / min;
3. Water quality: Drinking water and impurities is less than 0.2mm in diameter;
4. Cooling water PH value: 6 -9.
I think this should be sufficient, although other instructions indicate that distilled water should be used.
The setup as it is appears to configured to be powered by a 400 Watt ATX power supply, we could use this or the IEC320 with the terminal blocks shown at the top of this page.