I’m sure I am missing something and we will probably be able to figure out any small extra things that weren’t considered as we follow along the instructions in the google doc. Anything I think of will be put on this page including general notes.
- In the project notes on the hackrva wiki Alan said:
“- The top, front, right corner has a cutout for a user-configurable control plate to be attached. A lot of things can be done with it, but one option is to put a toggle switch (manual, cnc), a push button for test firing, and a 20mA analog meter in the panel. Those parts are in the bin below the laser cutter if you wish to use them. Someone will need to sketch up a matching plate with mounting holes and then cut it to fit (wood, acrylic, aluminum, etc.). “
If this is still the case, we will need to make a plate for the front panel. It will house everything listed under “Front Panel” in the wiring section of this project page.
This is the front panel from a similar laser. We have the same emergency stop switch and ammeter. We will need to get a potentiometer and some button switches. Also we can do the key switch if we decide to. The panel for ours will be shaped differently though, it is horizontally oriented measuring 8 1/4″ by 4″.
- We still need a bed for the things to be lasered on. I’m not sure the material of choice for laser engraving beds but I will research it. There is also an option of using a “honeycomb” cutting table on top of the bed surface, but they are kind of expensive.
- Need to find the nozzle thingy and drill another hole in it (see section on Air Compressor and Water Pump).
UPDATE – 10/26/2014I found the nozzle and Aaron drilled and threaded the hole for the set screw yesterday.
- It should be kept in mind that the interface PCB has a maximum current of 5A. If we are powering the relays to the air and water, the fan to the PCB, and the motors all from the board, and anything else, we need to make sure we don’t exceed this rating.
- Some of the explanations in the wiring section are confusing because we are wiring things (like the limit switches for example) to a connector that connects to a part of the interface PCB.From one of Alan’s posts on the buildlog forum:
“I used DB9, DB25, and RJ45 breadboard adapters to make it easy to jumper the various signals. My adapters came from Winford Engineering (http://www.winfordeng.com) and they worked like a charm. I had to put the motor enable/disable jumper to “disable” so that the steppers to disabled whenever the Arduino Uno was powered down.”
So we will be soldering the limit switches and front panel stuff to these breakout boards.
- The belts connected to the motors and pulleys and whatnot still have some excess that is just held down with clamps. The belts need to be adjusted to the proper length and tension.